Most people fly into Benidorm, park themselves on Levante Beach, drink sangria until the sun goes down, and fly home thinking they’ve seen it all. They haven’t. Not even close. Because the best bit, the part that made me properly fall for the place, is Benidorm Old Town.
The locals have a saying: “If you know, you go.” And honestly? Once you’ve wandered through the Old Town’s narrow lanes with a cold caña in hand, watching the sun melt into the Mediterranean from the Balcón del Mediterráneo, you’ll wonder why you spent so long on the strip. This is my guide to the Benidorm that most visitors completely miss.
Why Benidorm Old Town Is a World Away from the New Town
We’re talking a proper Spanish quarter perched on a rocky headland called Cerro Canfali, right between Levante and Poniente beaches.
Instead of British pubs and all-day breakfasts, you’ll find a maze of whitewashed alleys, traditional tapas bars spilling onto the pavement, and little shops selling things that aren’t inflatable flamingos. The pace is slower. The prices are lower. It’s the kind of place where you turn a corner and suddenly there’s a guitarist playing flamenco outside a tiny bodega.
Tapas Alley: Calle Santo Domingo and Where to Eat
Right in the heart of Benidorm Old Town, there’s a pedestrian street called Calle Santo Domingo – though everyone just calls it Tapas Alley. Both sides of the street are lined with pubs and restaurants, their counters stacked with gorgeous displays of tapas and montaditos. The Spanish have an old saying: “La comida entra por los ojos”, which means: food enters through the eyes. Nowhere is that more true than here.
You’ll find it just behind Plaza de la Constitución, easy to reach on foot from either Levante or Poniente Beach. There’s no entrance fee. Just rock up, pick a bar, and point at whatever looks good. Prices are reasonable. A plate of tapas and a beer for a few quid? That’s the kind of math I enjoy.
A few places worth knowing about. La Rana makes the best garlic prawns in the Old Town with properly garlicky, swimming in olive oil, perfectly mopped up with bread. Tasca y Basta is brilliant for traditional tapas done well, no fuss.
For a bit of everything, Amigos Bistro by Nas & Dino is a solid shout with a lovely terrace. There’s honestly no bad choice on Tapas Alley. Just follow your nose.
The Balcón del Mediterráneo: Pirates, Cannons, and the Best View in Town
Keep walking through the Old Town towards the sea and you’ll reach the spot that, for me, is the single best viewpoint on the entire Costa Blanca: the Balcón del Mediterráneo. It’s a pentagonal lookout point on the very tip of Cerro Canfali, perched on a rocky cliff that juts straight out into the water. On one side, Levante Beach stretches for nearly two kilometres. On the other, Poniente Beach curves away towards the marina. And straight ahead, the Mediterranean just goes on forever.
There’s also a lovely romantic tradition here. At Plaza del Castillo, couples place padlocks onto the well, writing their names on the metal before locking it shut and tossing the key. It’s a bit cheesy, I know. But standing there at sunset with someone you love, overlooking one of the most beautiful coastlines in Europe? I’ll take the cheese.
The Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana
Before you reach the Balcón, you’ll pass through the square where the Church of San Jaime and Santa Ana stands at the highest point of the Old Town. You can’t miss it. Its blue ceramic dome catches the light and is visible from miles around. It’s one of the most recognisable landmarks in Benidorm, and it’s been watching over the town since it was built between 1740 and 1780.
The people of Benidorm took it as a sign, and the Virgen del Sufragio became the town’s patron saint. The church was built in her honour, and you can still see the original carved figure inside a glass case in the chapel.
The Island of Benidorm and the Legend of the Giant
From the Balcón del Mediterráneo, you can’t miss Benidorm Island sitting out in the bay, a dramatic chunk of rock covering about 65,000 square metres. You can catch a boat out there from the marina. But the best bit is the legend.
Look inland and you’ll see Puig Campana, a massive mountain with a distinctive notch sliced out of its peak. According to local myth, a giant called Roldán struck the mountaintop with his sword in a fit of rage. The chunk he cleaved off flew through the air, crashed into the sea, and became Benidorm Island.
Best Time to Visit and Practical Tips
- Sunrise or sunset is the best time for the Balcón. The light is unreal and the photos are ten times better.
- Mornings before noon are ideal for a relaxed wander through the Old Town streets without the crowds.
- May to October is the liveliest period. In summer (July-August), expect it to be packed but the atmosphere is electric.
- Evenings from 9pm are when Tapas Alley comes alive. Artists set up on the squares, musicians play, and the whole area has this gorgeous social buzz.
- Getting there: From Levante Beach, walk to the end of the promenade and follow the signs up through the Old Town. From Poniente Beach, head past the marina and up the stairs from Mal Pas Beach.
The Old Town is best explored on foot. The lanes are narrow and pedestrianised, which is half the charm. If you’re using Benidorm as a base and want to explore other Costa Blanca gems like Altea, Guadalest, or Villajoyosa, picking up a car from Rentiago makes life a lot easier. Rentiago operates two pickup points in Benidorm and the all-inclusive pricing means no nasty surprises.
